22nd
Mexican Wine: La Vendimia
Mateo and I had gone to meet Oliva Guadalupe Molina, the magical daughter of Benito and Solange Molina (also magic), owners of Manzanilla, in Ensenada.
A few tasting notes gathered in light of the Venidima in Ensenada. Among them some of my favorites. What’s not in here: one of the craziest Rosés I’ve ever tasted—Montefiori—an odd and phenomenal blend of Shiraz and Sangiovese (50/50), tasted at LAJA en el valle de Guadalupe. While I have always been partial toward the Rosé of el Charro, and tend to distrust anyone who chooses to employ use of the word “Shiraz,” I am in love with this elegant, complex wine. I remembered some Italian guy talking about planting Italian varietals about a decade or so ago—some people thought he was crazy. The same can often be said about those who see that which does not yet exist. Below, the wines of a few visionaries: Hugo and Antonio. Gracias, Maestros!
1999 Casa de Piedra Valle de Guadalupe (Cabernet Sauvignon Tempranillo)Incredibly complex– uncovering layers of bold spice and forward fruit character, followed by spicy cherry, concentrated ripe and overripe black fruit nuances, baking spices, fresh wood and faint herbal character; with time, undercurrents of fig and date fade into chocolate, delivering subtle eucalyptus and blueberry redolence. The palate is firm in structure, offering stout tannins, while copious fruit supports spicy tobacco, leather, faint smoke, anise, date and earthy black fruit– not unctuous but clean and crisp; great texture and mid-palate, not overly-concentrated or jammy. With time, faint nut character evolves and original black fruit is overtaken by red fruit: cherry, strawberry and new wood– flavors and aromas are both intense, undercurrent of ripe plums and date resonate after finish, intertwined delicate eucalyptus nuances.
2000 Casa de Piedra Valle de Guadalupe (Cabernet Sauvignon Tempranillo) Darker in color. Less forward, more subtle and sophisticated– showing very little wood. She lures you in, offering back layers upon layers of black plum, figs, date, sweet baking spices, round subtle wood and nut character. Blueberry leads the way into red fruit, with undertones of cherry and plums, but the black fruit remains ever-present. With more time, complex date character fades into chocolate, with delicate mint nuances, but almost all fruit: dense blackberry and black plum. The palate is brimming with complex fruit character: deep black fruit, with racy undertones of concentrated blueberries– predominance still bold, round fruit. Beautifully balanced mouthfeel– stout tannins ensure longevity, but supple fruit dominates now. A beautiful marriage of round and racy fruit; good mid-palate and lingering finish of sweet, spicy cherries.
2000 Mogor-Badan (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot) imparts rich aromas of sweet blueberries, black plums and cherries; strong nut character, crème brule, aged wood, faint smoke, fig Newton, date, subtle chocolate, and ripe undertones of deep black cherry. The palate is firm in structure, offering flavors of fig, date, dust and immense black fruit. Additional nuances of chocolate and faint herbaceousness, with an underbelly of racy red fruit evolve. The finish is long, delivering a redolence of spice, delicate mint, and faint boysenberry.
