11th
Aging Cheap Australian Shiraz: Who Knew?
Our neighbors had us over for ‘hors d’oeuvres and drinks,’ yesterday—which is inevitably results in feast. They’re in their eighties, have traveled extensively—Europe being central, France being favorite—and always offer amazing fare, only to be rivaled by their generous spirit and conversation. Al, who first visited France in the early forties, under less than favorable circumstances, was very excited to share with me a bottle that he had found. He fancies me some kind of wine-guy and always loves sharing. It was a cheap bottle of Australian Shiraz from the 1999 vintage—which I was immediately curious about, as most people never let bottles like that get any age on them. For me, it’s all a learning experience—and rarely does one find a bottle that he can’t learn something from. Admittedly, I’m not sure that I’ve ever purchased a bottle of Rosemount, though I have tried it, of course.
When I praised Al for having had the foresight to cellar the bottle for all those years, he said, “Cellar it? I couldn’t find it.” Reality-check—I began laughing uncontrollably, which he found a bit odd. He studied me curiously for a moment, as if to establish my stability, and then suggested that it might just as well be vinegar. Much to our delight, the bottle, which he probably paid less than ten-dollars for, had matured quite beautifully.
The 1999 Rosemount Estate Shiraz Estate Bottled South Eastern Australia 13.5 % was deep ruby; with mature black cherries, dates, figs, with faint dank undertones—appealing rustic funk, not typical of Australia. The palate was silky, posing good structure, balanced, and layers of ripe black fruit, with undertones of overripe plums, dried cherries—firm tannins, fruit dropping a bit. With time, faint chocolate, lingering candied notes of blackberry and black cherry.
I would have much preferred to have tasted this wine blind—as I always do—but I’d be particularly curious to know where I’d have taken it. I doubt that I would have pegged it for Australian, which is generally (though definitely not always), distinctive. I have been fooled and pleasantly surprised on numerous occasions, now. It was Syrah, as far as I could tell—nothing of familiar Rhône notoriety, but perhaps Languedoc, or some kind of country wine.
The learning experience on this occasion: firstly, cheap Australian wine can age, additionally, perhaps I ought to try “losing” a couple of bottles and allow them to mature for a decade, or so. Sometimes, I’m not too good at the latter—but temptation can get the best of us all. Keep learning.
