Ramblings of Artisanal Libations RSS

Seeking a better understanding of that illusive enigma—simple and ethereal— which has inspired human beings to ponder and pillage.

To dive into the timeless and delectable dichotomy—that which unites farmers, philosophers and creators. And, that which delivers us back to, while reminding us the importance of our mother earth.

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Last evening, we had the great pleasure of finishing a beautiful bottle—albeit 20 years too young—of 2003 Nicolas Joly Coulée de Serrant.  We wanted to see how many cases we should want to strong-arm out of friends around the country; as the stuff is getting pretty hard to find.  The idea of biodynamic has taken on a new life, of late, in the wake of the green-power movement.  Some folks in wine country chuckle a bit as biodynamics moves into popular culture—but I think that we’re all grateful for the awakening, proudly driven by the wine-community.  Names that have been on the roster for some time include Araujo and Benziger, in California and Leroy and DRC in France—though the global list is upward of 485 producers, and growing.  Much of the awaken has been an intrinsic response to the failures wrought by big-business, “progress” and multinational thugs—I won’t indict myself with the names, but one of them rhymes with Vin Santo. Many of us have been enjoying Joly wines for years and found inspiration in his books, where he almost single-handedly resurrected Rudolf Steiner and anthroposophy.  Coulée-de-Serrant first caught my attention not because of biodynamics, but because it is one of three single-estate Appellations in France—the other two: Romanee-Conti and Chateau-Grillet.  Fairly substantial company to keep. Maintaining Biodynamic practices since 1982 and passionately spearheading its global movement, I believe Nicolas Joly says it best, “I don’t only want a good wine but also a true wine.” The 2003 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulée de Serrant Savennières is dark golden in color, with an orange huge.  The singular bouquet is intense with deep, rich fruit, offering faint sweet candied nuances— golden apple, lime,  bright new wood; faint herbal notes, menthol, Corinth raisins, pineapple, lychee, plum, apricot, slightest hint of caramel, brown spices; as it evolves mineraltiy and nectar, caramelized apricots; then pronounced nectar, faint white peach. The palate is round, supple; great mouth-feel, amazing structure; lush golden apples, with ripe undercurrents of apricot, plum, brown spice; layers and layers of ripe fruit, faint nectar and peach; subtle lemon, crisp apples, minerality. Balanced acids, supple, lemon, apricot.  Lingering immeasurably in the full finish. Complete, luscious, superlative.  The kicker: we left a glass in cupboard 20 hours, from a bottle which had been opened for four days.  Immediate perfume of ripe golden fruit: apple, faint apricot, lemon peel; bright, cedar, pear, faint pineapple and tropical fruit. The structure shows through—amazingly well-built, and far from tired.  The palate is balanced, offering layers of golden apples, faint pear, tropical fruit, traces of tame wood, apple sauce and lemon. For those who have miraculously not had the pleasure of getting to know these singular wines—they must be allowed time to open; and, ideally, age in the bottle.  That said, young, they are simple astounding and unequaled.

Last evening, we had the great pleasure of finishing a beautiful bottle—albeit 20 years too young—of 2003 Nicolas Joly Coulée de Serrant.  We wanted to see how many cases we should want to strong-arm out of friends around the country; as the stuff is getting pretty hard to find.  The idea of biodynamic has taken on a new life, of late, in the wake of the green-power movement.  Some folks in wine country chuckle a bit as biodynamics moves into popular culture—but I think that we’re all grateful for the awakening, proudly driven by the wine-community.  Names that have been on the roster for some time include Araujo and Benziger, in California and Leroy and DRC in France—though the global list is upward of 485 producers, and growing.  Much of the awaken has been an intrinsic response to the failures wrought by big-business, “progress” and multinational thugs—I won’t indict myself with the names, but one of them rhymes with Vin Santo.

Many of us have been enjoying Joly wines for years and found inspiration in his books, where he almost single-handedly resurrected Rudolf Steiner and anthroposophy.  Coulée-de-Serrant first caught my attention not because of biodynamics, but because it is one of three single-estate Appellations in France—the other two: Romanee-Conti and Chateau-Grillet.  Fairly substantial company to keep.

Maintaining Biodynamic practices since 1982 and passionately spearheading its global movement, I believe Nicolas Joly says it best, “I don’t only want a good wine but also a true wine.”

The 2003 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulée de Serrant Savennières is dark golden in color, with an orange huge.  The singular bouquet is intense with deep, rich fruit, offering faint sweet candied nuances— golden apple, lime,  bright new wood; faint herbal notes, menthol, Corinth raisins, pineapple, lychee, plum, apricot, slightest hint of caramel, brown spices; as it evolves mineraltiy and nectar, caramelized apricots; then pronounced nectar, faint white peach. The palate is round, supple; great mouth-feel, amazing structure; lush golden apples, with ripe undercurrents of apricot, plum, brown spice; layers and layers of ripe fruit, faint nectar and peach; subtle lemon, crisp apples, minerality. Balanced acids, supple, lemon, apricot.  Lingering immeasurably in the full finish. Complete, luscious, superlative. 

The kicker: we left a glass in cupboard 20 hours, from a bottle which had been opened for four days.  Immediate perfume of ripe golden fruit: apple, faint apricot, lemon peel; bright, cedar, pear, faint pineapple and tropical fruit. The structure shows through—amazingly well-built, and far from tired.  The palate is balanced, offering layers of golden apples, faint pear, tropical fruit, traces of tame wood, apple sauce and lemon.

For those who have miraculously not had the pleasure of getting to know these singular wines—they must be allowed time to open; and, ideally, age in the bottle.  That said, young, they are simple astounding and unequaled.