August 2008
36 posts
2007 La Ferme Julien
The 2007 La Ferme Julien Côtes du Liberon Rhône Valley (Perrin ) Bourboulenc 30%, Grenache Blanc 30%, Ugni Blanc, 30%, Roussanne 10% [International Wine Imports, American Canyon, CA] 13% is light in color; with a lovely subtle nose, that maunders from floral to fruity—with a bouquet of bright citrus, ripe apples, fresh grass, spice, grapefruit and faint undertones of candied apple, pineapple and...
The Scam that Wouldn't Die
One would think that it would have gone away, by now; and I apologize for my part in perpetuating its existence. Those WS Loyalists have taken to the streets—or, social networking sites, as the case may be. Anonymous activists are defending the failing kingdom under siege, whilst vilifying this Robin Goldstein, as a cheap self-promoter. They’re frantically pouring hot oil down on the first-wave...
2004 Domaine Jo Pithon Anjou Les Bergères
Brian served us some Jo Pithon blind last night, in yet another mind-blowing experience sitting with him at the bar in Mélisse. I really don’t know of a better wine and food pairing experience in the country. Brian is singular; Josiah’s kitchen, superlative. I unfortunately don’t drink a lot of these wines—perhaps availability—but, what an amazing producer, Jo Pithon, his entire line-up is not...
Mexican Wine: La Vendimia
Mateo and I had gone to meet Oliva Guadalupe Molina, the magical daughter of Benito and Solange Molina (also magic), owners of Manzanilla, in Ensenada.
A few tasting notes gathered in light of the Venidima in Ensenada. Among them some of my favorites. What’s not in here: one of the craziest Rosés I’ve ever tasted—Montefiori—an odd and phenomenal blend of Shiraz and Sangiovese (50/50), tasted at...
No Man’s Land Rosé
The 2006 No Man’s Land Rosé Melnik Thracian Valley, Bulgaria Damianitza 13% alcohol is an odd pinkish-orange color, with a subtle elegant nose that is delicately floral, backed by red fruit, ripe cherries, pomegranate, faint tropical fruit, traces of chalk and tamed herbaceous notes. The palate is surprisingly complex, offering ripe flavors of red cherries, plums and apples; good structure, crisp...
Wine Spectator Fraud: Osteria l'intrepido
In the event that you haven’t yet heard about this, the quick story is as follows:
A certain Robin Goldstein recently tested the Wine Spectator Grand Awards program. He concocted the fictitious Osteria l’intrepido (it doesn’t exist), created a web site, created a wine list with the worst rated wines of the last decade in WS, sent in his $250 (hugely important). And bingo, his...
The Other Soul-Meat
All I can say is, if half the restaurants in LA had half the integrity that Baby Blues does, we’d be in a lot better shape. Not that I am complaining, mind you—I am firmly convinced that we have one of the most exhilarating food scenes in the country. But I have had BBQ all over the south—from Texas to North Carolina—and I haven’t had anything this good in years. Greens dripping in deep...
1985 La Tâche
Well, last night, it was back to center. I would prefer to say as little as possible about this experience, for fear of falling short. Amazing.
The1985 La Tâche Domaine de la Romanée-Conti was medium dark in color. Rich, voluptuous aromas of ripe fruit—both red and black, exotic spice and game, followed by black cherry, blackberry, soy, musky earth and smoke. As the bouquet evolves, stewed...
2006 Castaño Monastrell Yecla
There are outstanding buying opportunities today—more than any other time since the wine-craze took hold a decade or so ago. And, it seems as if most of these prospects are coming out of Spain—sure, there’s Argentina, unexploited corners of France (thank you, Kermit), even Greece. But, Spain is where fifty to one hundred-year-old vines meet a burgeoning technology; where innovations in...
Mexican DO’s Don’t [Make Sense]
We all know by now—or should, anyway—that Mexico produces some of the most distinctive and exciting wines of any emerging growing-region. Yes, “emerging” is a bit misleading, to the extent that the first grapes brought to the Americas landed in Mexico by the edict of the crown, in the 1500’s, which ordered every Spaniard with a land-grant to plant 1,000 grape vines, for every 100 indigenous...
K-Town: Korean Soul-Food
My attorney had that certain panic in his voice. He advised that I drive across town immediately. I know that tone; and I know to always take it seriously. He has taken me through a series of tests—over the past year—examinations which one must pass in order to get to the next level. His approach, methodical; his patience, unparalleled.
This is Korean soul-food. My mentor, Rob-san.
My journey...
Verdejo: the Other White Meat
The 2005 Naia Rueda DO 100% Verdejo 13 % alcohol Henry Wine Group is light-gold in color; the sweet floral bouquet is inviting, offering mango, kiwi, honeydew, golden apples, bright sweet grapefruit and lime zest. The palate is bright and racy, while balanced, with great structure—firm, clean acid—some steely mineral qualities, with long, lingering crisp sweetness, lime, sweet grapefruit,...
Yountville: Keller Country
Some might suggest that those of us who truly admire Thomas Keller would prefer to see him in Yountville, more than any other place on earth. Terribly presumptuous and selfish of us—controlling, one might even say. But this may have something to do with a singular experience that one has had the pleasure imbibing at the Laundry. Those who might find it odd to see this saintly man—humble and...
Wine of the Night (any day of the year)
I couldn’t help but extend the learning experience from last night’s bottle—designing what I thought might be a decent blind tasting. I decided to draw two correlating factors—vintage and grape. I wanted very different regions, without going over-the-top—reaching for a Jaboulet Hermitage, or something. What I wound up with was a splash of Syrah—probably around 5%.
The 1999 E. Guigal...
Aging Cheap Australian Shiraz: Who Knew?
Our neighbors had us over for ‘hors d’oeuvres and drinks,’ yesterday—which is inevitably results in feast. They’re in their eighties, have traveled extensively—Europe being central, France being favorite—and always offer amazing fare, only to be rivaled by their generous spirit and conversation. Al, who first visited France in the early forties, under less than favorable circumstances, was...
Zen and the Birds of Appetite
Where there is carrion lying, meat-eating birds circle and descend. Life and death are two. The living attack the dead, to their own profit. The dead lose nothing by it. They gain too, by being disposed of. Or they seem to anyway, if you must think in terms of gain and loss. Do you then approach the study of Zen with the idea that there is something to be gained by it? This question is not...
Santa Monica
Can’t really imagine being anywhere else. Except for maybe la Vendimia, with Benito, Solange and Oliva; or Paris with Alex, Jean Louis and Matthew; or an uninhabited beach with my wife.
Perhaps a stroll down to see Brian at Mélisse for a blind tasting will do the trick. In one sitting, he can take you on an enlightening while irreverent trek around the globe several times—only revealing the...